Ah Yew Sarawak Laksa, an iconic name in the laksa business for decades, has gracefully passed the ladle to her younger sister due to advancing age and related health issues. While she may no longer be at the helm, her legacy lives on at the Bormill Food Center. You can find the Google Maps pin for this nostalgic spot here.
Until earlier this year, Ah Yew’s laksa was my go-to comfort meal, and I found myself there multiple times a week, especially since one of my offices is conveniently nearby. (Don’t miss the Penang Char Kuey Teow stall in the same café; it’s a real treat!) However, since her retirement there has been some inconsistencies in the “kuah” which has lowered the rating for this laksa.
In the world of Sarawak Laksa, the broth, or “kuah,” reigns supreme. While garnishes like prawns, chicken, and sliced egg omelette may vary slightly in size and freshness, it’s the kush that makes or breaks the dish. Some establishments may opt for larger prawns, and I’ve even heard whispers of places in KL using lobsters. Yet, no matter how exceptional the other ingredients are, if the kuah falls short, the entire experience is compromised.
Ah Yew’s kuah boasts a generous amount of coconut milk or santan, which lends it a unique character. While it doesn’t pack the fiery spiciness found in some other laksas, it has its own delightful edge. Ah Yew’s approach to prawns is distinctive as well – she halves them, creating the illusion of a more abundant bowl. Some patrons appreciate this presentation, while others have their reservations. Personally, I’m more concerned with the freshness and full-bodied flavour. I prefer my prawns meticulously peeled, without tails or tentacles protruding from the bowl, as it can get quite messy otherwise. After all, there’s no need for additional chaos in an already bustling laksa haven.
Bormill Food Center, the cafe itself, is an inviting open-air establishment equipped with ceiling fans that might be humming softly. It prides itself on maintaining a clean and pleasant ambiance. The restroom facilities are well-maintained, adhering to the standards one would expect at a typical coffee shop.
What sets this cafe apart is the warm and welcoming atmosphere, and it’s evident that it’s a family-run operation. As you look around the premises, you’ll discover an array of stalls catering to diverse tastes and preferences, even offering non-halal food options. It’s a testament to the diverse and multicultural character of Sarawak, where such multi-ethnic and multi-racial coffee shops are the norm.
For those who may have reservations about enjoying their meals in such an inclusive setting, this might not be the ideal choice for you. However, in Sarawak, embracing this multicultural cafe experience is a true reflection of the region’s vibrant culinary and social culture.
Rating (out of 5): 3/5
Price: “Baha Special” RM15 with extra prawns (as pictured)